The verdant mountainous coastal terrain between Tralee and Dingle in
Co. Kerry, traversed down through the centuries by many hardy travellers
of this part of what is known as the Dingle Way, has been revitalised
by committed local people and reclaimed as the Kerry Camino.Now, similar to Spain’s world-famous Camino de Santiago, walkers can travel on a designated 55km route which leads them through beautiful rugged landscape, on through towns and villages, with stations along the way where their log books can be stamped, until they reach their final destination at the Spanish-built St James’s Church in Dingle and receive their certificates of completion.
The cover of the log book features a drawing of an artefact which was found by Fionnbarr Moore in 1992 during an archeological dig at a medieval tomb at Ardfert cathedral, which is just a few kilometers north of Tralee and associated with St Brendan, patron saint of Kerry and, interestingly, also considered by some to be patron of the American Navy.
The artefact is a pewter scallop shell with a bronze-gilded statue of St James attached and mounted on a brooch, which indicates that it was a pilgrim’s badge. The shell has long been associated with St James and, when found in a grave, suggests that the person has been a pilgrim to the apostle’s burial place in Santiago.
As the Camino de Santiago is and always was one of the most important places of pilgrimage in Europe, many Irish people historically would have undertaken the arduous journey there. Tralee man John Ahern, himself an experienced walker who has travelled the Kerry Camino, explains that many Irish pilgrims going to Santiago departed from St James’s Gate in Dublin and that Kerry pilgrims’ point of departure for Spain was most likely St James’s Church in Dingle, from which they would sail to the port of La Coruna, there to join the way of St James.
But whatever about the Irish going to Spain on pilgrimage John says that Ireland itself is “riddled with pilgrimage sites even more than Spain”. He states that there are several thousand archeological sites between Tralee and Dingle. As well as possessing many vestiges of the times when Ireland earned its title of the Isle of Saints and Scholars, John says that the Kerry Camino is “one of the most beautiful walks in the world”.
John goes on to say, “If there’s ever proof that there’s a God, it’s nature. A pilgrimage is walking through nature, where two or three people are together, sharing beauty. A pilgrimage doesn’t always have to be a purgatory.”
Over the spectacular Conor Pass, north of Dingle, Mount Brandon is situated, Ireland’s second highest mountain, which was reputedly climbed by St Brendan as an act of penance and is named after him.
The mountain overlooks Brandon Creek, the point from which in 1976 explorer, historian and writer Tim Severin began his currach voyage to America, proving that it is at least possible that St Brendan reached the New World centuries before Christopher Columbus.
While the Kerry Camino currently takes in the Tralee to Dingle section of the Dingle way it is hoped to extend the Camino in future to take in the rest of the Dingle peninsula. It is also envisaged that it will be connected by a walking route through North Kerry, which takes in St Brendan’s birthplace in Fenit, and Ardfert - where he was baptised by Bishop Erc and later founded Kerry’s most important monastery - all the way from Clonfert in Co. Galway, where he also founded a monastery and where he is thought to be buried.
In association with The Gathering, the Kerry Camino started its summer season last weekend, when according to committee member Mike O’Donnell "the local friends of Saint Brendan welcomed all comers to Tralee to follow in the footsteps of Kerry's most famous son, Brendan the Navigator".
The route is divided in to three stages – Day One is from Tralee to Camp, Day Two is from Camp to Annascaul and Day Three is from Annascaul to Dingle. Walkers can choose to be transported back to Tralee at the end of each day or accommodation can be arranged in Camp and Annascaul. Each day’s walk is between five and six hours in length.
“You can do the walk as a contemplative journey alone or with companions," Mike says. "It is up to oneself what to do. Whether you come on a pilgrimage of personal faith or renewal, or for the fun and health benefits of a good walk, we will welcome you with open arms the way Saint Brendan welcomed the converts he made while on his crusades.”
Walkers can pick up their information/registration pack at the Grand Hotel, Tralee; the Tourist Office in Tralee and Dingle; the Information Kiosk on the Mall in Tralee; Landers' Outdoor World, Mile Height, Tralee; Hilser's Jewellers, Castle St, Tralee. The information pack contains a passport/logbook, map, details of route.
Camino prep list:
* Good Boots: water proof hiking boots/trail shoes are suggested as these give much more support and grip than running shoes, also they are water proof and some of the trail may be wet.
* Rain gear: It may suprise you to know that it sometimes rains in Ireland (even in Kerry) some sort of rain coat and water proof trousers are good to have.
* Food: you will be walking for the day so bring a packed lunch.
* Drink: bottles of water, tea or coffee in a flask are a good idea as you will be out all day.
* Other items that people bring are blister packs, petroleum jelly and a small first aid kit.